Dogon land

December 11th

We drive to visit the magical and mysterious Dogon land. It is full of temples, fetishes, and shrines. First we visit Sangha. It is one of the largest Dogon villages in the region. The picture you see with animals hanging off the house is the chief's. This village has the famous painted rock wall, where they do the boys' circumcision ceremonies. I have seen this on tv, but it's amazing to actually be there! Our guide Kass explains the Dogon beliefs and how the ceremony transpires. In a cave we see all the instruments used *only* for this ceremony. 

We take 4WD's to see the Bandiagara enscarpment and drive down the cliffs to visit the villages of Irely (picture of two old men there), Amani (has crocodiles), Tirely, and Bajani (we hike over the cliff here).  

I love to see the signs with a village name and distance pointing to nothing--not a road, not even a path that I can see. I see people traveling by foot (often barefoot) in "remote" places, with not a dwelling in sight.

We stay the night in Sangha. At dark I hear singing and drums going past my room. I run out and follow some people going home from work. It is dark, but I follow them home, enchanted by their singing. At their house, I dance along with them and they are so surprised that the tubabu (white person) is there dancing. They enthusiastically cheer me on.